Chicago City Guide

 

This is not the greatest hits list. These are the in-between things. The moments that don’t photograph especially well, don’t come with merch, and somehow end up being the parts people remember.

If you’re in the mood to experience Chicago a little more sideways, start here.

← Chicago City Guide

Neighborhoods

Chicago is a city of neighborhoods. Officially, there are 77 of them. Unofficially, there are more, because people will argue about borders until everyone is tired. These neighborhoods are not a branding exercise. They are the reason the city works. They are politically powerful, culturally distinct, and deeply tied to how Chicago sees itself.

What follows is not a comprehensive list. It’s a handful we love and that visitors tend to ask about. Leaving one out is not a judgment. It’s just page limits.

← Chicago City Guide

Eating and Drinking

← Chicago City Guide

Wrigleyville

Wrigleyville is not just a neighborhood with a baseball stadium in it. It’s a place with its own internal clock, one that runs on first pitch, last call, and the collective mood of roughly 40,000 people wearing the same color.

If there’s a game during your stay, you’ll feel it. That’s not a warning. It’s part of the charm.

Eating & Drinking Around Wrigley

Wrigleyville food and drink is best understood as a spectrum. On one end: deeply specific, slightly uncomfortable neighborhood institutions that should not exist as close to a major sports stadium as they do. On the other: large, predictable places designed to absorb crowds efficiently.

Both have their moments.

Murphy’s Bleachers

This is the platonic ideal of a Wrigleyville bar. Loud, friendly, unapologetically Cubs-obsessed, and exactly what it claims to be. If you want to feel like you are in Wrigleyville, not just near it, start here.

3655 N Sheffield Ave

The Cubby Bear

Historic, enormous, and recently updated without losing its soul. Multiple rooms, big screens, and a sense that generations of people have already had extremely long days here. Worth walking through even if you only stay for one drink.

1059 W Addison St

Sluggers World Class Sports Bar

This is the big bar on Clark and Addison. It’s impossible to miss and impossible to misunderstand. Batting cages upstairs, rooftop space, and—importantly—a dueling piano bar that turns into controlled chaos later at night. It is exactly as ridiculous as it sounds.

3540 N Clark St

Cozy Noodles & Rice

An old-school Thai restaurant that feels like it wandered into Wrigleyville from another era and decided to stay. Solid comfort food, late hours, and an interior that includes a slightly mysterious robot connection that no one fully explains but everyone remembers.

3456 N Sheffield Ave

Things You Probably Won’t Find in Guidebooks

Behind-the-Scenes Tours of Wrigley Field

Even if you don’t care about baseball, these are genuinely great. You see the guts of the place, the old details, the strange corridors, and suddenly understand why people get sentimental about it. Game days, you see less than on non-game days, but still worth it.

Statues, Signs, and a Small Piece of Advice

Scattered around Wrigley Field are a handful of bronze statues honoring some of the most important figures in Cubs history. You’ll see Ernie Banks, beloved for both his talent and his optimism. Ron Santo, a fan favorite and longtime presence. Billy Williams, one of the great hitters of his era. And Fergie Jenkins, whose statue sits just outside the park.

The iconic Wrigley Field marquee sign is just as much a pilgrimage point, but here’s the honest advice: if you want a photo, do it on a non-game day. The sign is still there, the sidewalk is calm, and you won’t feel like you’re standing in the middle of a moving river of people. Game days are about momentum. The sign will wait for you another time.

← Chicago City Guide

Delightful Experiences

Southport

The Brown Line, Southport to the Loop

Sit by the window and look into people’s backyards as the train glides past. You’ll see patios, dogs, dinner prep, string lights, half-finished projects. It’s intimate in a way that feels accidental and very Chicago.

Ravenswood

Ravenswood is very good at not announcing itself. There are leafy streets, beautiful old apartment buildings, gardens people have clearly thought about, and enough useful things nearby that a perfectly ordinary errand can become a very pleasant afternoon.

Then you reach the railway corridor and the texture changes. Brick industrial buildings, workshops, studios, breweries. This is not a neighborhood that discarded everything interesting about its working life and replaced it with a sign saying “authentic.” People still make things here. Some of those things are conveniently drinkable.

The Brown Line gives the area a rhythm without making the whole place feel hurried. Trains go by. People walk to coffee. Someone has a remarkably good garden. It is a version of Chicago that rewards slowing down enough to notice it.

Lincoln Park

Lincoln Park is very good at making a perfectly ordinary afternoon feel like something you ought to have planned. There is a lake. There are gardens. There is an actual zoo. You can do quite a lot here without buying a ticket or developing an itinerary with subsections.

The Joys of Lincoln Park

Start with the lake

Head east for the lakefront, then decide how ambitious you feel. A long walk, a short walk, sitting and looking at the water: all legitimate uses of the place. The skyline does a great deal of the work. On windy days, the lake will remind you that this is not a decorative pond.

The zoo and the green bits

Lincoln Park Zoo is free to enter, with no ordinary admission reservation, which remains a rather lovely thing in a city where almost everything else has discovered a service charge. South of the zoo, the Nature Boardwalk gives you a quieter loop around the pond, with city views and room to slow down.

The nearby Lincoln Park Conservatory is the indoor, leafy option. Admission is free, but timed reservations are required, so book before setting off. The Alfred Caldwell Lily Pool is another lovely, quieter stop when open for the season. Check current access rather than expecting every green corner to operate on the same schedule.

Shopping, with occasional fresh air

Armitage and Halsted are good streets for a proper browse: little shops, clothes, things for the home, and the steady possibility of finding something you suddenly feel has been missing from your life. Clark offers another long run of neighborhood shops and places to stop. You are allowed to look without acquiring anything. In theory.

A small aside from David

One of my favorite local activities is watching Lincoln Park mothers pilot $1,200 strollers toward a pastry. These are not conveyances. They are small European vehicles with better suspension than my first car. The women operating them have somehow been to Pilates, answered several consequential emails, and dressed a person who cannot yet hold a spoon, all before I have located my glasses. I admire the competence. I am also a little afraid of it. There is a particular confidence involved in approaching a crowded café with twins, a golden retriever, and the firm expectation that this will all work out. Usually it does. I can barely get myself through a revolving door without a strategy meeting.

Lincoln Square

This is a neighborhood where people appear to have a preferred baker, a preferred bench, and fairly firm views about both. The scale is friendly. The buildings have character. There are enough ordinary errands happening around you to make visiting feel a little like borrowing someone else’s very pleasant routine.

The pleasures of doing very little

A proper neighborhood pause

Welles Park, southwest of the square, is where you can sit among people who are simply getting on with their day. Children, dogs, a bit of sport, someone reading. You do not have to turn this into an itinerary.

Logan Square

Logan Square rewards leaving a little room in the day. There are broad green boulevards, side streets lined with old houses, and enough places to stop for coffee or a meal that a short walk can become most of an afternoon. This is not a scheduling failure.

The Joys of Logan Square

Start with the boulevards

The Logan Square Boulevards Historic District gives the neighborhood much of its shape. Walk along Kedzie or Logan Boulevard and look up occasionally: limestone houses, older apartment buildings, porches, masonry and the sorts of details people once bothered to put over a window.

At the square, the Illinois Centennial Monument is the tall column topped by an eagle. It is a useful landmark even if you have not developed a sudden interest in monumental columns.

Palmer Square

For a quieter green interlude, head to Palmer Square. There is a path around the park, mature trees and room to sit. Younger children may appreciate the Velveteen Rabbit-inspired play area; adults are allowed to appreciate a bench.

A book beside lunch

City Lit Books is at 2523 N Kedzie Blvd, next to Lula. Go in before or after a meal and have a browse. They host author events and book clubs too, so check the calendar if that sounds like your sort of evening.

The 606

For a longer walk, the Bloomingdale Trail runs along a former elevated rail line. It is part of The 606, with access from California Avenue at Bloomingdale. You can walk east toward Bucktown and Wicker Park or west through the neighborhood. It is a shared trail, so leave room for people moving faster than a leisurely visitor.

The raised viewpoint is part of the attraction. You are looking across gardens, streets and the backs of buildings rather than collecting another view of the skyline. Turn around whenever you like. There is no prize for making the walk more ambitious than you intended.

The farmers market

If a market is on during your stay, it is a very good way to lose part of a morning to bread, produce and something you meant to eat later. The outdoor Logan Square Farmers Market is seasonal; winter arrangements have different days and a different location. Check the current calendar before setting out.

Outside Chicago: Three Oaks, Michigan

The downtown is a lovely walk in general.

Three Oaks

Alapash

The mercantile (111 N Elm) has more indoor plants, the main store (just down the street) has more house crap.

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Drier’s

If anyone is really into meat, we have a very famous butcher.

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← Eating and Drinking

Caffeination

Southport

Cafe Tola

Southport

Our nearby pick for coffee and empanadas. Start the day here, or make it an afternoon detour. A very sensible excuse to get out the door.

3612 N Southport

Hotel Chocolat - Hot Chocolate Worth Mentioning

Southport

Not a coffee shop in the traditional sense, but absolutely worth stopping in, especially on a cooler day. This Lakeview-Southport location of a UK chocolatier serves rich, velvety drinking chocolate in several styles and flavors alongside confections and pastries. It’s a fun alternative to your usual latte and a nice moment if you’re craving something warm and chocolatey.

3334 N Southport

Ravenswood

Colectivo Coffee

Ravenswood

The Ravenswood branch is on Lawrence at Wolcott, with two floors, a mezzanine, and a patio when the weather permits. A good place for coffee to become breakfast, or for a brief stop to acquire a second chapter.

1831 W Lawrence Ave

The Perfect Cup

Ravenswood

A family-owned neighborhood coffee shop at Damen and Leland. Coffee, pastries, breakfast sandwiches, and lunch, without requiring the morning to become a lifestyle announcement.

4700 N Damen Ave

Lincoln Park

Floriole

Lincoln Park

Aaron’s favorite for coffee and French-inspired pastries on Webster. A very good reason for a short walk, and a perfectly respectable excuse to call a second pastry breakfast.

1220 W Webster Ave

Hotel Chocolat: Hot Chocolate Worth Mentioning

Lincoln Park

Not technically coffee, which David considers a point in its favor. The British chocolatier’s Armitage shop serves drinking chocolate alongside its confections. Especially useful when the weather has become personally insulting.

900 W Armitage Ave

Ludlow Charlingtons Coffee Shop

Lincoln Park

A family-owned coffee shop with portraits of actual Chicago shelter dogs dressed as Victorian aristocrats. Finally, a room where the dogs have made an effort. Coffee and a little local character on Clark.

2425 N Clark St

Lincoln Square

Oromo Cafe

Lincoln Square

Just up Lincoln, with Turkish coffee, inventive lattes, and house-made nut milks. For the morning when you would like your coffee to have a little more to say for itself.

4703 N Lincoln Ave

Beans & Bagels

Lincoln Square

West along Leland, near Rockwell, this independent café and bakery makes a good excuse to explore beyond the square. Coffee, bagels, and a quieter neighborhood morning. Go early; this is not your late-afternoon caffeine rescue.

2601 W Leland Ave

Logan Square

Cafe Mustache

Logan Square

A daytime cafe with coffee and somewhere to settle in. Later it becomes a bar and music venue. This is useful information if your plan was to return for the same quiet afternoon at ten at night.

2313 N Milwaukee Ave

Daisies

Logan Square

Coffee and pastries on Milwaukee. The cafe is a useful morning stop in its own right, not merely a holding area until dinner begins. Check the current service details if you want to sit down, especially during Sunday brunch.

2375 N Milwaukee Ave

More places worth a detour

← Eating and Drinking

Libations

Ravenswood

Koval

Ravenswood

One of David’s absolute favorite places to go for a tipple. Cocktails, whiskey and gin flights, and light bites in the tasting room, with a patio when Chicago allows it. You do not need to book a tour simply to have a drink.

4241 N Ravenswood Ave

Begyle Brewing

Ravenswood

A neighborhood brewery with an unusually literal sense of community: it even has a community-supported growler subscription. Approachable beers and a good starting point for an unhurried afternoon.

1800 W Cuyler Ave

Dovetail Brewery

Ravenswood

Traditional European brewing methods and a particular affection for lagers. For people who enjoy the idea that a beer can be beautifully made without requiring a paragraph of ingredients involving breakfast cereal.

1800 W Belle Plaine Ave

More places worth a detour

Drawing Room

The Loop

One of David’s favorite bars. The historic lobby lounge inside the Chicago Athletic Association: cocktails, wine and a relaxed bite, with original millwork and three fireplaces.

12 S Michigan Ave

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Cindy’s Rooftop

The Loop

Rooftop restaurant and bar at the Chicago Athletic Association, with a glass atrium, year-round terrace and views of Millennium Park and Lake Michigan.

12 S Michigan Ave · 13th floor

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bar avec

River North

An open-air rooftop for drinks, Mediterranean-inspired bites and skyline views. Seasonal: currently closed for the season; check the website before planning a visit.

640 N LaSalle Dr, 8th floor

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← Eating and Drinking

Supper and Such

Southport

Ella Elli

Southport

Warm, refined, and quietly confident. The dining room feels grown-up without being stiff, with good light, good acoustics, and food that rewards paying attention. This is a place for a proper meal that still feels relaxed. (pro tip… gentlemen reading this, surprise your ladyfriend with dinner. She will love it)

1349 W Cornelia

Coda di Volpe

Southport

Southern Italian in a fancy neighborhood spot. Wood, compelling booths, excellent service, and a menu that knows exactly what it’s doing.

3335 N Southport

Tango Sur

Southport

An Argentinian dinner worth making room for. David’s unscientific endorsement: he notices what he takes to be Argentinians dining here and thinks, “Must be good.” Not a census. Just his very personal restaurant research.

3763 N Southport

Coalfire

Southport

Thin, bubbly, coal-fired pizza with a little char. An excellent option when dinner should involve pizza but not a deep-dish commitment. We are very much in favor of that distinction.

3707 N Southport

Southport · Breakfast & Brunch

A quick clarification, because this matters.

In Chicago, breakfast and brunch are not the same thing. Breakfast is something you do early and efficiently. Brunch is a social event that starts late, involves waiting, and may quietly derail the rest of your day. Both have their place. Knowing which one you want will save you time and disappointment.

Steingold’s of Chicago

Southport

The bagel shop on Southport, and a very good one. Proper bagels, strong coffee, and exactly what you want if you’re trying to get out the door without committing to a full brunch situation.

3737 N Southport

Crosby’s Kitchen

Southport

A good nearby choice for weekend brunch, with pancakes, eggs and enough options to let everyone have an opinion.

3455 N Southport

Little Goat Diner

Southport

Stephanie Izard’s playful take on the American diner. People love it, and it belongs on the brunch list.

3325 N Southport

Ravenswood

Spacca Napoli

Ravenswood

Aaron is particularly fond of this Neapolitan pizza place at Sunnyside and Ravenswood. Properly good pizza, an oven built by artisans from Naples, and very little reason to overcomplicate your order.

1769 W Sunnyside Ave

Rojo Gusano

Ravenswood

At Berteau and Ravenswood, another of David’s favorites. Mexican cooking with room for a little wandering: tacos, mole enchiladas, and fillings that go well beyond the obvious. He likes it very much. You may hear about it again.

4217 N Ravenswood Ave

Wolcott Tap

Ravenswood

A neighborhood pub on Montrose. David’s verdict: pretty good. Sometimes dinner can be a straightforward affair without anyone demanding that it become a life event.

1834 W Montrose Ave

Ravenswood · Breakfast & Brunch

Bryn Mawr Breakfast Club

Ravenswood

The Damen location. David loves this place, and the food is delicious. A good reason to head north when breakfast deserves a little more attention.

4747 N Damen Ave

Spoken Cafe

Ravenswood

A nearby breakfast and coffee option on Montrose. Useful when you want something close without asking breakfast to change your life.

1812 W Montrose Ave

Lincoln Park

Homeslice

Lincoln Park

One of David’s neighborhood favorites. Pizza on Webster for the evening when dinner should be easy, generous, and not require a committee.

938 W Webster Ave

Café Ba-Ba-Reeba!

Lincoln Park

Tapas and paella on Halsted. A good answer when everyone wants to try something different and dinner is better shared than negotiated.

2024 N Halsted St

Old Pueblo Cantina

Lincoln Park

Sonoran-style Mexican food on Webster. Another David favorite, and a useful direction when the evening calls for Mexican food rather than another conversation about pizza.

1200 W Webster Ave

The Pasta Bowl

Lincoln Park

One of David’s favorites. Unpretentious, a bit grungy, delicious, and generous, with the added pleasure of watching the sauce being made at the stove in front of you. Dinner without a thesis statement.

2434 N Clark St

Del Seoul

Lincoln Park

Family-owned Korean street food on Clark: tacos, bibimbap, and kimchi fries. Useful when you want something full of flavor without turning dinner into an evening of formal negotiations.

2568 N Clark St

Lincoln Park · Breakfast & Brunch

Range

Lincoln Park

Seasonal brunch on Webster. A good option when you want a proper plate of food without turning breakfast into a major production. Check the current brunch days before setting out.

1119 W Webster Ave

Gemini Bistro

Lincoln Park

If you want breakfast to be more of a production, Gemini is the sit-down weekend brunch option. Make a proper occasion of it, and stop pretending this was going to be a quick breakfast.

2075 N Lincoln Ave

Lincoln Square

The Warbler

Lincoln Square

Seasonal American cooking, dishes to share, and a lively room. Useful when the group wants a good dinner without deciding that dinner is now a formal occasion.

4535 N Lincoln Ave

Himmel’s

Lincoln Square

German comfort food on Lawrence. Lincoln Square’s German heritage is still quite capable of feeding you, and this is a sensible place to let it. Arrive hungry rather than merely curious.

2251 W Lawrence Ave

Jerry’s Sandwiches

Lincoln Square

An independent sandwich shop with enough imagination to make “let’s just get a sandwich” a perfectly respectable plan. A good casual counterweight to the evening with the dinner reservation.

4739 N Lincoln Ave

Lincoln Square · Breakfast & Brunch

Willow Cafe & Bistro

Lincoln Square

David’s first choice here. House-made pastries and weekend brunch; a good place to settle in rather than eat while trying to locate your other glove.

4729 N Lincoln Ave

Alexander’s Restaurant

Lincoln Square

A proper neighborhood breakfast: eggs, pancakes, and the reassuring possibility that breakfast need not become an elaborate production.

4357 N Western Ave

Bagel Miller

Lincoln Square

Bagels and breakfast sandwiches, very close by. A sensible answer when you want breakfast without scheduling your entire morning around it.

4655 N Lincoln Ave

Logan Square

Lula Cafe

Logan Square

Aaron’s personal favorite. From outside, you would not necessarily predict extraordinary food. That is part of the pleasure. Seasonal cooking with plenty to interest people who would rather eat vegetables than negotiate around them. A very good reason to plan ahead.

2537 N Kedzie Blvd

Lonesome Rose

Logan Square

Tex-Mex on California, with tacos, burritos and margaritas. The straightforward answer when dinner should be cheerful and nobody wants to spend forty minutes deciding how formal they feel.

2101 N California Ave

Giant

Logan Square

A small room with ambitious, inventive food, including pastas and dishes that are useful to share. The name does not describe the floor plan. Book ahead rather than assuming a table will materialize because you are hungry.

3209 W Armitage Ave

A small Logan Square dining room with a seasonal American menu, house-made pasta and enough personality for the hipster-friendly part of your Chicago itinerary. Think dinner with a point of view, not a dress code for your personality.

Longman & Eagle

Logan Square

A contemporary Chicago inn with seasonal food and a serious interest in whiskey. A good choice when you want a proper dinner and would be perfectly happy if the evening continued at the bar.

2657 N Kedzie Ave

Logan Square · Breakfast & Brunch

Bang Bang Pie & Biscuits

Logan Square

Biscuits, pie and a counter-service approach to the morning. Order first, then find a seat. If a slice of pie somehow joins breakfast, we are not the people who are going to intervene.

2051 N California Ave

Pie, buttery biscuits and the excellent prospect of making a meal out of both. Bang Bang belongs on the hipster-friendly comfort-food circuit: start with a biscuit, leave room for pie and resist turning breakfast into an efficiency exercise.

More places worth a detour

avec — West Loop

West Loop

A David favorite. Mediterranean shared plates in a warm, wood-paneled room, with shared tables and dishes for sharing.

615 W Randolph St

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Dove’s Luncheonette

Wicker Park

A neighborhood diner serving Southern-inspired Mexican food, mezcal and cocktails.

1545 N Damen Ave

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The Publican

Fulton Market

Oysters, seafood, heritage pork and seasonal vegetables in Fulton Market.

837 W Fulton Market

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Parson’s Chicken & Fish

Logan Square

Madison recommends this casual chicken-and-fish spot and its patio. Off-season patio use is weather-dependent, with to-go orders from the bar rather than full outdoor table service.

2952 W Armitage Ave

Website ↗

Wicker Park

Schwa

Wicker Park

An intimate, reservation-only restaurant from chef Michael Carlson. BYOB.

1466 N Ashland Ave

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Lakeview · Breakfast

Diner Grill

One of David’s favorites. Tiny, with the grill about three feet away, so the cooking is not exactly happening behind a veil of mystery. Go for a proper diner breakfast.

1635 W Irving Park Rd

West Loop & Fulton Market

Swift & Sons

Fulton Market

A modern steakhouse in Fulton Market, serving steaks, seafood and handmade pasta.

1000 W Fulton Market

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Duck Duck Goat

West Loop

Stephanie Izard’s Chinese-American restaurant, with hand-pulled noodles, house-made dumplings and dim sum.

857 W Fulton Market

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Elske

West Loop

Seasonal cooking from David and Anna Posey, with Danish influences and both tasting-menu and à la carte options.

1350 W Randolph St

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← Chicago City Guide

Music & Other Noise

Wrigleyville

Metro

Indie, Alternative, and Things You Loved at 22 (or Still Do)

One of the city’s most important mid-sized venues. Bands pass through Metro on their way up, on their way back, or on their way to becoming much bigger than the room. The crowd is engaged, the sound is good, and the calendar is consistently strong.

Also, check out the adjacent Smart Bar. Well worth the voyage.

Wrigleyville

The Music Box Theatre

If you like movies even a little, the Music Box Theatre is worth your time. Its original auditorium opened in 1929 and still gives a movie the setting it deserves. The screen is huge. The sound is excellent. The building still feels like a place you go on purpose.

They show a mix of first-run films, restorations, repertory screenings, festivals, and things you didn’t know you wanted to see until you saw them listed. The programming is smart and generous, and the audience actually watches the movie. There’s also a live organ, which sounds like a novelty until it isn’t.

If you’re in town for a few days, check what’s playing. Even if you don’t recognize the title, trust the curation. It’s one of those places that reminds you why going to the movies mattered in the first place.

Lincoln Square

A surprisingly good evening of music

The Old Town School of Folk Music has concert spaces at 4544 and 4545 N Lincoln. Despite the name, you are in Lincoln Square, not Old Town. Check the calendar: folk, roots, and music from far beyond Chicago all have a home here.

Rooms with a history

Aragon Ballroom

Uptown

Opened in July 1926, this former dance palace turns a concert into an architectural outing: Spanish Baroque details, a palace-courtyard interior and a starry ceiling. Big-band dancing gave way to roller skating, boxing, disco and today’s live shows.

1106 W Lawrence Ave

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The Vic Theatre

Lakeview

Opened as the Victoria Theatre in 1912, the Vic began with vaudeville and touring stage shows. Its Italian-marble lobby and ornate detailing survived a succession of movie-house identities before its 1980s revival as an intimate concert room.

3145 N Sheffield Ave

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← Neighborhoods

Wrigleyville

From the Lakeview guide

Holy crap this is a good neighborhood

Lakeview + Wrigleyville (and why it’s so good)

You’re in Lakeview, right at the seam where several Chicago personalities meet and politely coexist.

This immediate area is residential, leafy, and calm, made up of classic Chicago apartment buildings, side streets with real porches, and people who actually live here year round. It feels settled. Walk a few minutes in almost any direction and the tone shifts, but never abruptly. That soft transition is one of the best things about this pocket of the city.

To the east, you’ll feel the pull of Wrigleyville. Home of Wrigley Field since 1914, the neighborhood has gone through many lives. Once a working-class area built around factories and ballgames, then a slightly scruffier bar district, and now something more polished and planned. On game days, the energy is unmistakable. On non-game days, it’s surprisingly calm.

If you want spectacle, it’s there. If you don’t, it’s easy to step away from it.

Just west of here is the Southport Corridor, which feels like a village tucked into the city. Tree-lined streets, independent shops, bookstores, coffee spots, hordes of moms in Lululemon, and restaurants that locals actually use. Southport was once a streetcar route and still feels scaled to people rather than traffic. It’s an excellent place to wander without an agenda and one of the easiest areas to immediately like.

Zooming out a bit, Greater Lakeview ties everything together. Historically, this was an area shaped by waves of immigration, streetcars, and proximity to the lake. Today it’s one of Chicago’s most lived-in neighborhoods. Not flashy like the Gold Coast, not sleepy like Edgewater. Just functional, walkable, and layered.

If you feel like exploring further, you’re well positioned.

Ravenswood to the northwest brings quieter streets, breweries, and a more creative, residential feel. Lincoln Park to the south offers the lakefront, museums, and long walks that feel distinctly Chicago. Andersonville, Uptown, and North Center are all within easy reach, each with their own rhythm.

This is a good place to land because it doesn’t force anything on you. You can dip into activity or retreat from it. Stay close or roam widely. Either way, you’ll come back to a neighborhood that feels grounded, familiar, and easy to return to at the end of the day.

Eating & Drinking Around Wrigley

Wrigleyville food and drink is best understood as a spectrum. On one end: deeply specific, slightly uncomfortable neighborhood institutions that should not exist as close to a major sports stadium as they do. On the other: large, predictable places designed to absorb crowds efficiently.

Both have their moments.

Murphy’s Bleachers

This is the platonic ideal of a Wrigleyville bar. Loud, friendly, unapologetically Cubs-obsessed, and exactly what it claims to be. If you want to feel like you are in Wrigleyville, not just near it, start here.

3655 N Sheffield Ave

The Cubby Bear

Historic, enormous, and recently updated without losing its soul. Multiple rooms, big screens, and a sense that generations of people have already had extremely long days here. Worth walking through even if you only stay for one drink.

1059 W Addison St

Sluggers World Class Sports Bar

This is the big bar on Clark and Addison. It’s impossible to miss and impossible to misunderstand. Batting cages upstairs, rooftop space, and—importantly—a dueling piano bar that turns into controlled chaos later at night. It is exactly as ridiculous as it sounds.

3540 N Clark St

Cozy Noodles & Rice

An old-school Thai restaurant that feels like it wandered into Wrigleyville from another era and decided to stay. Solid comfort food, late hours, and an interior that includes a slightly mysterious robot connection that no one fully explains but everyone remembers.

3456 N Sheffield Ave

Things You Probably Won’t Find in Guidebooks

Behind-the-Scenes Tours of Wrigley Field

Even if you don’t care about baseball, these are genuinely great. You see the guts of the place, the old details, the strange corridors, and suddenly understand why people get sentimental about it. Game days, you see less than on non-game days, but still worth it.

Statues, Signs, and a Small Piece of Advice

Scattered around Wrigley Field are a handful of bronze statues honoring some of the most important figures in Cubs history. You’ll see Ernie Banks, beloved for both his talent and his optimism. Ron Santo, a fan favorite and longtime presence. Billy Williams, one of the great hitters of his era. And Fergie Jenkins, whose statue sits just outside the park.

The iconic Wrigley Field marquee sign is just as much a pilgrimage point, but here’s the honest advice: if you want a photo, do it on a non-game day. The sign is still there, the sidewalk is calm, and you won’t feel like you’re standing in the middle of a moving river of people. Game days are about momentum. The sign will wait for you another time.

Metro and more → Music & Other Noise
← Neighborhoods

Southport

From the Lakeview guide

Just west of here is the Southport Corridor, which feels like a village tucked into the city. Tree-lined streets, independent shops, bookstores, coffee spots, hordes of moms in Lululemon, and restaurants that locals actually use. Southport was once a streetcar route and still feels scaled to people rather than traffic. It’s an excellent place to wander without an agenda and one of the easiest areas to immediately like.

Coffee

Cafe Tola

Our nearby pick for coffee and empanadas. Start the day here, or make it an afternoon detour. A very sensible excuse to get out the door.

3612 N Southport

Hotel Chocolat - Hot Chocolate Worth Mentioning

Not a coffee shop in the traditional sense, but absolutely worth stopping in, especially on a cooler day. This Lakeview-Southport location of a UK chocolatier serves rich, velvety drinking chocolate in several styles and flavors alongside confections and pastries. It’s a fun alternative to your usual latte and a nice moment if you’re craving something warm and chocolatey.

3334 N Southport

Eating in the neighborhood

Ella Elli

Warm, refined, and quietly confident. The dining room feels grown-up without being stiff, with good light, good acoustics, and food that rewards paying attention. This is a place for a proper meal that still feels relaxed. (pro tip… gentlemen reading this, surprise your ladyfriend with dinner. She will love it)

1349 W Cornelia

Coda di Volpe

Southern Italian in a fancy neighborhood spot. Wood, compelling booths, excellent service, and a menu that knows exactly what it’s doing.

3335 N Southport

Tango Sur

An Argentinian dinner worth making room for. David’s unscientific endorsement: he notices what he takes to be Argentinians dining here and thinks, “Must be good.” Not a census. Just his very personal restaurant research.

3763 N Southport

Coalfire

Thin, bubbly, coal-fired pizza with a little char. An excellent option when dinner should involve pizza but not a deep-dish commitment. We are very much in favor of that distinction.

3707 N Southport

Breakfast, Brunch, and Managing Expectations

A quick clarification, because this matters.

In Chicago, breakfast and brunch are not the same thing. Breakfast is something you do early and efficiently. Brunch is a social event that starts late, involves waiting, and may quietly derail the rest of your day. Both have their place. Knowing which one you want will save you time and disappointment.

Steingold’s of Chicago

The bagel shop on Southport, and a very good one. Proper bagels, strong coffee, and exactly what you want if you’re trying to get out the door without committing to a full brunch situation.

3737 N Southport

Crosby’s Kitchen

A good nearby choice for weekend brunch, with pancakes, eggs and enough options to let everyone have an opinion.

3455 N Southport

Little Goat Diner

Stephanie Izard’s playful take on the American diner. People love it, and it belongs on the brunch list.

3325 N Southport

The Music Box Theatre

If you like movies even a little, the Music Box Theatre is worth your time. Its original auditorium opened in 1929 and still gives a movie the setting it deserves. The screen is huge. The sound is excellent. The building still feels like a place you go on purpose.

They show a mix of first-run films, restorations, repertory screenings, festivals, and things you didn’t know you wanted to see until you saw them listed. The programming is smart and generous, and the audience actually watches the movie. There’s also a live organ, which sounds like a novelty until it isn’t.

If you’re in town for a few days, check what’s playing. Even if you don’t recognize the title, trust the curation. It’s one of those places that reminds you why going to the movies mattered in the first place.

The Brown Line, Southport to the Loop

Sit by the window and look into people’s backyards as the train glides past. You’ll see patios, dogs, dinner prep, string lights, half-finished projects. It’s intimate in a way that feels accidental and very Chicago.

← Neighborhoods

Ravenswood

Holy crap this is a good neighborhood

Ravenswood (and the pleasure of a place that is actually lived in)

Ravenswood is very good at not announcing itself. There are leafy streets, beautiful old apartment buildings, gardens people have clearly thought about, and enough useful things nearby that a perfectly ordinary errand can become a very pleasant afternoon.

Then you reach the railway corridor and the texture changes. Brick industrial buildings, workshops, studios, breweries. This is not a neighborhood that discarded everything interesting about its working life and replaced it with a sign saying “authentic.” People still make things here. Some of those things are conveniently drinkable.

The Brown Line gives the area a rhythm without making the whole place feel hurried. Trains go by. People walk to coffee. Someone has a remarkably good garden. It is a version of Chicago that rewards slowing down enough to notice it.

Lincoln Square, to the west

A little village within the city, with independent shops, restaurants, and Giddings Plaza as a natural place to pause. It is an excellent direction to wander when you would like an outing but not an undertaking.

Andersonville, to the north and northeast

Clark Street gathers shops, food, Swedish heritage, and a strong LGBTQ+ community into a neighborhood with a very clear sense of itself. Go for a pastry, browse, and allow the errand to get slightly out of hand.

Uptown, toward the lake

A different tempo again, with historic entertainment venues, a rich mix of communities, and the pull of the lake farther east. Chicago changes its mind from neighborhood to neighborhood. That is one of the things we like about it.

This is a good place to land because it does not force anything on you. Stay close or roam widely. Either way, you come back to a neighborhood that feels grounded, familiar, and easy to return to at the end of the day.

Coffee

Colectivo Coffee

The Ravenswood branch is on Lawrence at Wolcott, with two floors, a mezzanine, and a patio when the weather permits. A good place for coffee to become breakfast, or for a brief stop to acquire a second chapter.

1831 W Lawrence Ave

The Perfect Cup

A family-owned neighborhood coffee shop at Damen and Leland. Coffee, pastries, breakfast sandwiches, and lunch, without requiring the morning to become a lifestyle announcement.

4700 N Damen Ave

Eating in the neighborhood

Spacca Napoli

Aaron is particularly fond of this Neapolitan pizza place at Sunnyside and Ravenswood. Properly good pizza, an oven built by artisans from Naples, and very little reason to overcomplicate your order.

1769 W Sunnyside Ave

Rojo Gusano

At Berteau and Ravenswood, another of David’s favorites. Mexican cooking with room for a little wandering: tacos, mole enchiladas, and fillings that go well beyond the obvious. He likes it very much. You may hear about it again.

4217 N Ravenswood Ave

Wolcott Tap

A neighborhood pub on Montrose. David’s verdict: pretty good. Sometimes dinner can be a straightforward affair without anyone demanding that it become a life event.

1834 W Montrose Ave

Breakfast, Brunch, and Managing Expectations

Bryn Mawr Breakfast Club

The Damen location. David loves this place, and the food is delicious. A good reason to head north when breakfast deserves a little more attention.

4747 N Damen Ave

Spoken Cafe

A nearby breakfast and coffee option on Montrose. Useful when you want something close without asking breakfast to change your life.

1812 W Montrose Ave

Malt Row

Koval

One of David’s absolute favorite places to go for a tipple. Cocktails, whiskey and gin flights, and light bites in the tasting room, with a patio when Chicago allows it. You do not need to book a tour simply to have a drink.

4241 N Ravenswood Ave

Begyle Brewing

A neighborhood brewery with an unusually literal sense of community: it even has a community-supported growler subscription. Approachable beers and a good starting point for an unhurried afternoon.

1800 W Cuyler Ave

Dovetail Brewery

Traditional European brewing methods and a particular affection for lagers. For people who enjoy the idea that a beer can be beautifully made without requiring a paragraph of ingredients involving breakfast cereal.

1800 W Belle Plaine Ave

← Neighborhoods

Lincoln Park

Holy crap this is a good neighborhood

Lincoln Park (and the company it keeps)

You’re in Lincoln Park, which manages to be leafy, busy, polished, residential, and slightly ridiculous without finding any of that contradictory. Beautiful old houses sit near ordinary apartment buildings. Students walk past people pushing very sophisticated prams. Someone is always coming back from a workout that appears to have required a financial adviser.

The pleasure is in the transitions. A quiet side street becomes a shopping street. A run of restaurants gives way to the park. The lake is off to the east, doing its usual excellent impression of an inland sea. You can spend a whole day here without feeling you have failed to “do Chicago.” This is Chicago, just without a queue for a rooftop photograph.

North: Lakeview

Head north and Lincoln Park eases into Lakeview. It is a broad, lived-in neighborhood with several distinct moods: restaurants and shops along Broadway, the energy of Northalsted, quieter residential streets, and Wrigleyville farther on. Southport has its own useful little world of shopping and coffee. You do not have to be attending a baseball game to enjoy the area, though a game will make its presence known.

The Wrigleyville pages elsewhere in this guide are still worth a look. Think of them as a neighborhood excursion, not directions to the end of your block.

South: Old Town

Old Town brings narrower, intimate-feeling streets, old houses, a busy stretch along Wells, and a long association with comedy. It is a good direction for a wander that becomes dinner, or dinner that becomes a show. The area does not abruptly change at a perfectly obvious line. Neighborhood borders in Chicago are occasionally treated as matters of personal conviction.

Back here in Lincoln Park, there is no need to choose between being a tourist and pretending to be a local. See the zoo. Browse a shop. Find a bench. Buy breakfast and take the long way home.

This is a good place to land because it doesn’t force anything on you. You can dip into activity or retreat from it. Stay close or roam widely. Either way, you’ll come back to a neighborhood that feels grounded, familiar, and easy to return to at the end of the day.

Coffee

Floriole

Aaron’s favorite for coffee and French-inspired pastries on Webster. A very good reason for a short walk, and a perfectly respectable excuse to call a second pastry breakfast.

1220 W Webster Ave

Hotel Chocolat: Hot Chocolate Worth Mentioning

Not technically coffee, which David considers a point in its favor. The British chocolatier’s Armitage shop serves drinking chocolate alongside its confections. Especially useful when the weather has become personally insulting.

900 W Armitage Ave

Ludlow Charlingtons Coffee Shop

A family-owned coffee shop with portraits of actual Chicago shelter dogs dressed as Victorian aristocrats. Finally, a room where the dogs have made an effort. Coffee and a little local character on Clark.

2425 N Clark St

Eating in the neighborhood

Homeslice

One of David’s neighborhood favorites. Pizza on Webster for the evening when dinner should be easy, generous, and not require a committee.

938 W Webster Ave

Café Ba-Ba-Reeba!

Tapas and paella on Halsted. A good answer when everyone wants to try something different and dinner is better shared than negotiated.

2024 N Halsted St

Old Pueblo Cantina

Sonoran-style Mexican food on Webster. Another David favorite, and a useful direction when the evening calls for Mexican food rather than another conversation about pizza.

1200 W Webster Ave

The Pasta Bowl

One of David’s favorites. Unpretentious, a bit grungy, delicious, and generous, with the added pleasure of watching the sauce being made at the stove in front of you. Dinner without a thesis statement.

2434 N Clark St

Del Seoul

Family-owned Korean street food on Clark: tacos, bibimbap, and kimchi fries. Useful when you want something full of flavor without turning dinner into an evening of formal negotiations.

2568 N Clark St

Breakfast, Brunch, and Managing Expectations

Range

Seasonal brunch on Webster. A good option when you want a proper plate of food without turning breakfast into a major production. Check the current brunch days before setting out.

1119 W Webster Ave

Gemini Bistro

If you want breakfast to be more of a production, Gemini is the sit-down weekend brunch option. Make a proper occasion of it, and stop pretending this was going to be a quick breakfast.

2075 N Lincoln Ave

The Joys of Lincoln Park

Start with the lake

Head east for the lakefront, then decide how ambitious you feel. A long walk, a short walk, sitting and looking at the water: all legitimate uses of the place. The skyline does a great deal of the work. On windy days, the lake will remind you that this is not a decorative pond.

The zoo and the green bits

Lincoln Park Zoo is free to enter, with no ordinary admission reservation, which remains a rather lovely thing in a city where almost everything else has discovered a service charge. South of the zoo, the Nature Boardwalk gives you a quieter loop around the pond, with city views and room to slow down.

The nearby Lincoln Park Conservatory is the indoor, leafy option. Admission is free, but timed reservations are required, so book before setting off. The Alfred Caldwell Lily Pool is another lovely, quieter stop when open for the season. Check current access rather than expecting every green corner to operate on the same schedule.

Shopping, with occasional fresh air

Armitage and Halsted are good streets for a proper browse: little shops, clothes, things for the home, and the steady possibility of finding something you suddenly feel has been missing from your life. Clark offers another long run of neighborhood shops and places to stop. You are allowed to look without acquiring anything. In theory.

A small aside from David

One of my favorite local activities is watching Lincoln Park mothers pilot $1,200 strollers toward a pastry. These are not conveyances. They are small European vehicles with better suspension than my first car. The women operating them have somehow been to Pilates, answered several consequential emails, and dressed a person who cannot yet hold a spoon, all before I have located my glasses. I admire the competence. I am also a little afraid of it. There is a particular confidence involved in approaching a crowded café with twins, a golden retriever, and the firm expectation that this will all work out. Usually it does. I can barely get myself through a revolving door without a strategy meeting.

← Neighborhoods

Lincoln Square

From the guide to 4615 N Lincoln

Holy crap this is a good neighborhood

Lincoln Square (a small town with a very useful train)

At 4615 N Lincoln, you are right in the useful middle of things: a cinema across the street, independent shops up the road, dinner a short walk away. It is quite possible to have an excellent day here and never achieve the step count you had optimistically assigned yourself.

This is a neighborhood where people appear to have a preferred baker, a preferred bench, and fairly firm views about both. The scale is friendly. The buildings have character. There are enough ordinary errands happening around you to make visiting feel a little like borrowing someone else’s very pleasant routine.

Ravenswood, to the east

Leafy residential streets meet the old industrial corridor, with studios, workshops, breweries, and places where people still make things. Spacca Napoli at 1769 W Sunnyside is one of David’s favorites if the wandering needs a pizza-shaped purpose.

North Center, to the south

Keep following Lincoln for another stretch of shops, restaurants, and residential streets. The neighborhood changes gradually rather than announcing a border. Chicago reserves those arguments for its residents.

Andersonville, farther northeast

Head toward Clark Street for independent shops, Swedish heritage, a strong LGBTQ+ community, and an excellent excuse to lose an afternoon. This is a separate outing, not the next block.

Your train is Western, on the Brown Line

Use the station at 4648 N Western, a short walk away. Loop-bound trains take you toward downtown; Kimball-bound trains go west through Rockwell and over the river toward Albany Park. Chicago has several stations called Western. Check that yours says Brown Line. The color is doing important work.

Coffee

Oromo Cafe

Just up Lincoln, with Turkish coffee, inventive lattes, and house-made nut milks. For the morning when you would like your coffee to have a little more to say for itself.

4703 N Lincoln Ave

Beans & Bagels

West along Leland, near Rockwell, this independent café and bakery makes a good excuse to explore beyond the square. Coffee, bagels, and a quieter neighborhood morning. Go early; this is not your late-afternoon caffeine rescue.

2601 W Leland Ave

Eating in the neighborhood

The Warbler

Seasonal American cooking, dishes to share, and a lively room. Useful when the group wants a good dinner without deciding that dinner is now a formal occasion.

4535 N Lincoln Ave

Himmel’s

German comfort food on Lawrence. Lincoln Square’s German heritage is still quite capable of feeding you, and this is a sensible place to let it. Arrive hungry rather than merely curious.

2251 W Lawrence Ave

Jerry’s Sandwiches

An independent sandwich shop with enough imagination to make “let’s just get a sandwich” a perfectly respectable plan. A good casual counterweight to the evening with the dinner reservation.

4739 N Lincoln Ave

Breakfast, Brunch, and Managing Expectations

Willow Cafe & Bistro

David’s first choice here. House-made pastries and weekend brunch; a good place to settle in rather than eat while trying to locate your other glove.

4729 N Lincoln Ave

Alexander’s Restaurant

A proper neighborhood breakfast: eggs, pancakes, and the reassuring possibility that breakfast need not become an elaborate production.

4357 N Western Ave

Bagel Miller

Bagels and breakfast sandwiches, very close by. A sensible answer when you want breakfast without scheduling your entire morning around it.

4655 N Lincoln Ave

The pleasures of doing very little

A surprisingly good evening of music

The Old Town School of Folk Music has concert spaces at 4544 and 4545 N Lincoln. Despite the name, you are in Lincoln Square, not Old Town. Check the calendar: folk, roots, and music from far beyond Chicago all have a home here.

A proper neighborhood pause

Welles Park, southwest of the square, is where you can sit among people who are simply getting on with their day. Children, dogs, a bit of sport, someone reading. You do not have to turn this into an itinerary.

← Neighborhoods

Logan Square

From the Mozart and Dickens guide

Holy crap this is a good neighborhood

Logan Square and the company it keeps

You are staying on Mozart near Dickens, in the quieter residential part of Logan Square rather than directly on its busiest stretch. California Avenue is a useful first point of reference. Milwaukee Avenue and the boulevards give you the next layer of the map.

This is a neighborhood to explore at street level. Cafes and restaurants share space with ordinary apartment buildings, small shops and people doing the unglamorous business of living here. The houses are worth looking at. So are the shop windows. You can do both without pretending you are on an architectural tour.

The square and the boulevards

Head toward Kedzie and Logan Boulevard for the monument, green spaces, Lula and City Lit Books. The area becomes quieter again as soon as you turn away from the busiest corners. A few blocks can change the whole mood.

Beyond the immediate neighborhood

Milwaukee leads southeast toward Bucktown and Wicker Park. The 606 provides another way to make a longer neighborhood outing. The lakefront and Wrigleyville are worthwhile trips, but they are trips from here, not things you will find at the end of Mozart.

The Wrigleyville pages elsewhere in this guide are an excursion section. They remain useful if baseball is part of the plan; they are not a description of this block.

Getting your bearings

California station, 2211 N California Ave, is on the Blue Line. Downtown-bound trains travel toward Forest Park; trains in the other direction head toward O’Hare. Check the train’s destination and current service in your map app. Chicago does have other stations called California, so include “Blue Line” when you search.

The aim is not to tick off the neighborhood. Find a place you like, walk a little farther than planned and leave something for tomorrow.

Coffee

Cafe Mustache

A daytime cafe with coffee and somewhere to settle in. Later it becomes a bar and music venue. This is useful information if your plan was to return for the same quiet afternoon at ten at night.

2313 N Milwaukee Ave

Daisies

Coffee and pastries on Milwaukee. The cafe is a useful morning stop in its own right, not merely a holding area until dinner begins. Check the current service details if you want to sit down, especially during Sunday brunch.

2375 N Milwaukee Ave

Eating in the neighborhood

Lula Cafe

Aaron’s personal favorite. From outside, you would not necessarily predict extraordinary food. That is part of the pleasure. Seasonal cooking with plenty to interest people who would rather eat vegetables than negotiate around them. A very good reason to plan ahead.

2537 N Kedzie Blvd

Lonesome Rose

Tex-Mex on California, with tacos, burritos and margaritas. The straightforward answer when dinner should be cheerful and nobody wants to spend forty minutes deciding how formal they feel.

2101 N California Ave

Giant

A small room with ambitious, inventive food, including pastas and dishes that are useful to share. The name does not describe the floor plan. Book ahead rather than assuming a table will materialize because you are hungry.

3209 W Armitage Ave

A small Logan Square dining room with a seasonal American menu, house-made pasta and enough personality for the hipster-friendly part of your Chicago itinerary. Think dinner with a point of view, not a dress code for your personality.

Longman & Eagle

A contemporary Chicago inn with seasonal food and a serious interest in whiskey. A good choice when you want a proper dinner and would be perfectly happy if the evening continued at the bar.

2657 N Kedzie Ave

Breakfast, Brunch, and Managing Expectations

Bang Bang Pie & Biscuits

Biscuits, pie and a counter-service approach to the morning. Order first, then find a seat. If a slice of pie somehow joins breakfast, we are not the people who are going to intervene.

2051 N California Ave

Pie, buttery biscuits and the excellent prospect of making a meal out of both. Bang Bang belongs on the hipster-friendly comfort-food circuit: start with a biscuit, leave room for pie and resist turning breakfast into an efficiency exercise.

The Joys of Logan Square

Start with the boulevards

The Logan Square Boulevards Historic District gives the neighborhood much of its shape. Walk along Kedzie or Logan Boulevard and look up occasionally: limestone houses, older apartment buildings, porches, masonry and the sorts of details people once bothered to put over a window.

At the square, the Illinois Centennial Monument is the tall column topped by an eagle. It is a useful landmark even if you have not developed a sudden interest in monumental columns.

Palmer Square

For a quieter green interlude, head to Palmer Square. There is a path around the park, mature trees and room to sit. Younger children may appreciate the Velveteen Rabbit-inspired play area; adults are allowed to appreciate a bench.

A book beside lunch

City Lit Books is at 2523 N Kedzie Blvd, next to Lula. Go in before or after a meal and have a browse. They host author events and book clubs too, so check the calendar if that sounds like your sort of evening.

The 606

For a longer walk, the Bloomingdale Trail runs along a former elevated rail line. It is part of The 606, with access from California Avenue at Bloomingdale. You can walk east toward Bucktown and Wicker Park or west through the neighborhood. It is a shared trail, so leave room for people moving faster than a leisurely visitor.

The raised viewpoint is part of the attraction. You are looking across gardens, streets and the backs of buildings rather than collecting another view of the skyline. Turn around whenever you like. There is no prize for making the walk more ambitious than you intended.

The farmers market

If a market is on during your stay, it is a very good way to lose part of a morning to bread, produce and something you meant to eat later. The outdoor Logan Square Farmers Market is seasonal; winter arrangements have different days and a different location. Check the current calendar before setting out.

← Neighborhoods

Three Oaks, Michigan · Outside Chicago

The downtown is a lovely walk in general.

Three Oaks

Alapash

The mercantile (111 N Elm) has more indoor plants, the main store (just down the street) has more house crap.

Website ↗

Drier’s

If anyone is really into meat, we have a very famous butcher.

Website ↗